The British artist Ed Fornieles creates a fantasy world – someplace between modern day London and a not so distant future – to showcase Raimund Berthold’s latest collection.
AW18 plays the gloss of HD against our corporeal reality. Research looked at the bold architecture of modern churches; their angular beams and pointed windows inspired the geometric cutting on parkas and coats. The minimal rigour of these sacred spaces influenced a longer, modular silhouette and tight colour palette of copper, marsh and black.
Fornieles’s work often involves cultural, social and infrastructural production; orchestrating interventions that reconfigure the viewer’s position and sense of self. “You are what you wear. With each garment, look and style, we are asking ourselves: who am I?” he says.
The collection is brought to life through a cast of diverse archetypes all taken from the URL world. The prince and princess, the librarian, the anti-hero – a Replicant man, a villain and a troubled young prince, move through a magical landscape. Photographed by Fee-Gloria Groenemeyer at Carlos/Ishikawa gallery and across the city of London, each character explores themes of friendship, destiny and legacy.
Ultra-glossy faux leather, rubberised cotton and metallic foil are contrasted against nubby duffle wool, matte barathea and fine Japanese yarns. Donning this season’s cocooning trench, roomy wool trousers and technical knits opens up an alternate dimension conceived by Fornieles. Branding is key – BERTHOLD is writ large, quilted onto nylon and cut into cocooning parkas and square cut shirts. The logo is embroidered high onto the necks of jersey t-shirts and across the back of bomber jackets. SS18’s cross-body bag is re-issued, worn over an intarsia cashmere shawl.
In reframing Berthold’s collection, the artist applies a cosplay attitude, where the everyday meets a filmic or game-like reality. Berthold says; ‘Art plays a very definitive role for me. It isn’t something I grab at the start of the season for inspiration – and with the fashion calendar the way that it is right now, it felt like the right time to create work alongside an artist. To pose some real questions about what’s going on in the world. I wanted to pass the collection over to Ed and allow him to reinterpret and direct how our clothes could be seen. It has been so exciting to watch him build a new context for them.’
Artist Ed Fornieles @eddfornieles
Photographer Fee-Gloria Groenemeyer @feeglory
Make up Maria Comparetto @mariacomparettomua
Hair Linnéa Nordberg @linneanordberg
Yan K c/o PRM @yan.ku
Ottillie Heyes c/o IMG @ottillieh
Production Lars Alexander