On the walls of Raimund Berthold’s studio are photographs of scratches, scars and stitches embedded deep into the skin, 3D printed prosthetics, curved metal body braces and athletic tape coiled around arms and legs.
The collection explores the rhythm of restriction.
Proportions push and pull. Dimensions meet and diverge. Wide, desolate hospital corridors and angular shadows inspire a larger, languid silhouette for tunics and winter coats. Thick, rough bandages wrapping heads and masking identities translate into volumes delimited yet energetic. Taut body gloves are worn over wide-leg trousers and sportif jackets have elongated, exaggerated sleeves. Fins jut from trousers and across the back of boxy blousons. Elbows on bombers are spliced open; skinny trousers are split at the knee or corseted against the torso.
Fuzzy, dimpled, crisp – textures are taken from torn, soft leather and papers left folded and aged over time. Rich felted wools and pitted technical fabrics are paired with fluffy mohair and easy cotton suiting. Colours are polar white, heavy black and bruise.
STYLING Jason Hughes at LGA Management
CASTING Sarah Bunter
HAIR Alexander Soltermann using Fudge Professional
MAKE-UP Ciara O’Shea at LGA Management
NAILS Saffron Goddard
SET Justyna Kabala
SOUND KRL (Wolf Music)
With sincerest thanks to Paul Ettlinger, Dal Chodha, Greg Hewitt, Michelle Noel, Sam Carmichael, Agata Kluba, Oliver Thompson, Ruby Beardsall, Lukas Viering, Roberta Pinna, Gabbi Carter, Uudo, Tara Langford, Andy Butcher, Jonny Lamb, Joella Lessner, Sara Blonstein, Laura Fairfax, Vikki Burns, Kevin Luckhurst, Michelle Lacey, Willem Jaspert and Dr. Martens.