Raimund Berthold’s SS18 collection is a study of masculinity and conflict.
Research began with a collection of photographs of child soldiers across Sierra Leone, Uganda, Liberia and Nigeria. Enlarged and pinned to a metallic sheet suspended in the studio, each reveals a brutal absurdity in different ways.
A boy of about 14 stares right into the lens, chewing a cigarette with an AK-47 slung over his shoulder; the thick epaulets and fat cuffs of his fatigues betray his adult role. A group of young comrades strike a pose wearing shorts too big for them, gathered up around their waist, pockets and belts dwar ng their tiny frames. Their oversized clothes and dressed-up swagger present a awed con dence, a false sense of manly power and pride.
SS18 considers these awkward contrasts. Here, enlarged sleeves designed to be worn rolled-up are left unfurled; exaggerated funnel necks are worn with cropped tunics. Wrap front trousers are left loosened.
Berthold explores the crucial transition from boy to man – from the tragedy of radicalisation to the joy of tribal belonging. From the Dinka tribe in South Sudan, the Bashada in Ethiopia and Ndebele and Khoisan in Southern Africa, their majesty and sense of theatre has inspired a collection of bold clothes with certain elegance.
The optimism and brightness of youth is suggested in the abstract graphic print in golden yellow, crisp cyan and red which uses shapes from traditional costume. It is printed onto modern crisp technical fabric and rich cottons, yet
is underscored with languid ne summer wools and fresh technical cloth in black. Knitwear concentrated on creating pattern through stitch with contrast inlay detail at the neck and cuff; nubby blankets are slung over bag straps worn across the body.
Posturing, status. Harmony.
Styling Jason Hughes @jasonhughesinfo
Casting Sarah Bunter @bunterbear
Hair Alexander Soltermann using Fudge Professional @alexandersoltermannhair
Make-Up Maria Comparetto @ Emma Davies Agency @mariacomparettomua
Nails Saffron Goddard @saffrongoddard
Set Justyna Kabala justyna-kabala.com
Music Yasmina Dexter @pandorasjukebox
Production Blonstein @blonsteinproduction